Antwerpen
Since Belgium is only a 2 hour train ride away, and weekend round trip tickets are cheap (only 30E's with our Dutch discount rail pass!) we felt justified in taking a weekend to visit Antwerp, Belgium.
Aside from England, this was our first trip to a country outside of The Netherlands. Even though Antwerp is literally right across the boarder from The Netherlands, it did feel like a different country. Or maybe it felt like a big European city. We aren't sure which. But it was different, interesting, and fun.
We started out our trip on the 5:20pm train from Utrecht. We got out of the house in under an hour and with only two backpacks and Elena in her stroller. WE were quite pleased with our packing. The train rides were not quite as relaxed as it was completely full. Luckily, eventually we got two seats together and could eat our dinner of pasta salad, packed into the convenient yougurt 'buckets' we collect through the week. The Antwerp train station is an old-style, large station. It was an impressive melding of stone and steel. They are doing lots of construction around, so the outside looks cluttered, but it felt a bit like a movie to pull in to it.
We were impressed with EU efficiency, or lack of regulations, is it the same thing? No one checked passports, residency cars, and our train tickets were stamped only once.
We had thought that since we arrived before 8pm, that we might grab a beer in an outdoor cafe, or maybe a little dessert snack, perhaps some chocolates or a waffle. However, we learned the Belgians are not the Dutch. In Utrecht on a mild late summer evening, the tables would have been spilling into the streets with people having casual beers, cappuccino’s, coffee & geableck (dessert). But in Antwerp, nothing was open! There were a few bars, like dance clubs, but even the restaurants looked to be winding down. The 'cafes' around squares were long closed. And there were no waffles or chocolate to be found. So we went straight to our hotel, very near the water. The room was sparse in the European style, but it had a crib ('special new bed for Elena! Elena sleep there with little bear.') And it had a small step up to the window where Elena could look out.
This was thrilling as in the morning, the city (apparently without much notice) towed all the cars from around the plaza to prepare for a basketball tournament. They were towed by being lifted by trucks with small cranes onto flat bed trucks. Felt sorry for the fine the owner would face, but it kept Elena occupied for most of Saturday morning while we got ready.
So, we took off 'early' before 9 and walked around the city, admiring the architecture, buildings and statues. After finding an ATM, we returned to an amazing looking bakery to pick up a morning snack. Tasty pastries. Then we took a tour of the large cathedral in Antwerp. It was amazing. I must say, it was the first large cathedral I have ever been in. Even Elena was occupied looking at the paintings on the ceiling. The cathedral has several Ruben paintings and some amazing carved wood work.
Then we headed back toward a little tavern we had walked by. It looked like a 'locals' spot and I think it was. But I don't think they order much food there. But it was lunch time, and raining, and Jake and I had ordered beers and we didn't think that they would let us sleep on the floor, so we needed some lunch to perk up. It was a nice atmosphere, though.
A cozy tavern with wood paneled ceilings and rooms built into the masonry. After that we headed to the maritime museum. You know all about the boats. But there was this statue of Gulliver our front. I find it disturbing. Jake says I have too much imagination.
Elena finally fell asleep in the stroller. We circled an old church looking for a museum on music and city life, but could never find a way in (later we learned it was closed for 6 months, a sign would have been nice. But they are Belgian, not Dutch. Since it was the afternoon, and we were feeling sleepy, we thought it was time to try the next 'delicacy' of Belgium. Chocolates of course! Oh, there are lovely little shops. And the woman was so kind. I picked out 4 tasty 'pralines' for Jake and I as a snack. They are filled chocolates. Hand made. Carefully packaged with a perfect little ribbon even though they know you are going to rip it right off.
We went to the Ruben's house museum after that. It was interesting, but not overly impressive, as it didn't really have signs on all the paintings, there was no guide we could find, and some things seemed to be out on show. But there were a few of the famous Flemish painters. Very similar to the works in Lieden and we were impressed with the construction of the hold house and gardens.
Even though we should have learned our lesson from the night before, we felt like we had to 'kill time' before dinner. In Holland if you show up for dinner at 5pm, the wait staff is all smoking on the curb out front and glaring at you to move along. But we would have been fine going straight to dinner in Belgium. A friend has suggested an interesting bar for drinks. It was down in a cellar, under the street. It was all candle lit.
The beer was very good. Even though we had been warned against mediocre food, Elena was hungry and tired (and it turns out cutting her two year molars), so we just had some 'food.' We compensated with chocolates on the way home, though.
Sunday we woke up to no cars getting towed (bummer for Elena) and a bit of rain. So after breakfast and checking a bag at the desk, we headed to the Vogletsmart. It was, we had hoped, going to be an opportunity for Jake and Elena to see some pigeons and rare birds. However, it turned out to be a sad little market with too many bunnies in too small cages. We quickly moved on and distracted ourselves with waffles. I'm in love with Belgian waffles. Those that bare the 'Belgian waffle' name in America do them a disservice. Belgian waffles are not made with a batter, but rather a sweet dough (quite similar to what is used to make stroopwafels in Holland).
They are pressed into to a waffle iron and the result is a warm, gooey, sweet center surrounded by a cake like batter with a crunch coating of slightly burnt sugar on the edges. Pure heaven I tell you. They even thoughtfully have pre-cooled ones for the kids. Jake and I burned our mouths on them and remarked on the amazing experience. Cooled, the sugar crystallizes into crunchy bits and is quite tasty as well. But the warm ones are amazing.
Sunday there was a street festival going on. So we walked through the booths and listened to some music. We walked along the water, got caught in a down pour, dried out over a lunch of pitas while watching the horse carriages trot by, bought a box of chocolates (from a not nice lady, as a matter of fact) and headed home.
(** pictures will be added when blogger is behaving itself ** )
Aside from England, this was our first trip to a country outside of The Netherlands. Even though Antwerp is literally right across the boarder from The Netherlands, it did feel like a different country. Or maybe it felt like a big European city. We aren't sure which. But it was different, interesting, and fun.
We started out our trip on the 5:20pm train from Utrecht. We got out of the house in under an hour and with only two backpacks and Elena in her stroller. WE were quite pleased with our packing. The train rides were not quite as relaxed as it was completely full. Luckily, eventually we got two seats together and could eat our dinner of pasta salad, packed into the convenient yougurt 'buckets' we collect through the week. The Antwerp train station is an old-style, large station. It was an impressive melding of stone and steel. They are doing lots of construction around, so the outside looks cluttered, but it felt a bit like a movie to pull in to it.
We were impressed with EU efficiency, or lack of regulations, is it the same thing? No one checked passports, residency cars, and our train tickets were stamped only once.
We had thought that since we arrived before 8pm, that we might grab a beer in an outdoor cafe, or maybe a little dessert snack, perhaps some chocolates or a waffle. However, we learned the Belgians are not the Dutch. In Utrecht on a mild late summer evening, the tables would have been spilling into the streets with people having casual beers, cappuccino’s, coffee & geableck (dessert). But in Antwerp, nothing was open! There were a few bars, like dance clubs, but even the restaurants looked to be winding down. The 'cafes' around squares were long closed. And there were no waffles or chocolate to be found. So we went straight to our hotel, very near the water. The room was sparse in the European style, but it had a crib ('special new bed for Elena! Elena sleep there with little bear.') And it had a small step up to the window where Elena could look out.
This was thrilling as in the morning, the city (apparently without much notice) towed all the cars from around the plaza to prepare for a basketball tournament. They were towed by being lifted by trucks with small cranes onto flat bed trucks. Felt sorry for the fine the owner would face, but it kept Elena occupied for most of Saturday morning while we got ready.
So, we took off 'early' before 9 and walked around the city, admiring the architecture, buildings and statues. After finding an ATM, we returned to an amazing looking bakery to pick up a morning snack. Tasty pastries. Then we took a tour of the large cathedral in Antwerp. It was amazing. I must say, it was the first large cathedral I have ever been in. Even Elena was occupied looking at the paintings on the ceiling. The cathedral has several Ruben paintings and some amazing carved wood work.
Then we headed back toward a little tavern we had walked by. It looked like a 'locals' spot and I think it was. But I don't think they order much food there. But it was lunch time, and raining, and Jake and I had ordered beers and we didn't think that they would let us sleep on the floor, so we needed some lunch to perk up. It was a nice atmosphere, though.
A cozy tavern with wood paneled ceilings and rooms built into the masonry. After that we headed to the maritime museum. You know all about the boats. But there was this statue of Gulliver our front. I find it disturbing. Jake says I have too much imagination.
Elena finally fell asleep in the stroller. We circled an old church looking for a museum on music and city life, but could never find a way in (later we learned it was closed for 6 months, a sign would have been nice. But they are Belgian, not Dutch. Since it was the afternoon, and we were feeling sleepy, we thought it was time to try the next 'delicacy' of Belgium. Chocolates of course! Oh, there are lovely little shops. And the woman was so kind. I picked out 4 tasty 'pralines' for Jake and I as a snack. They are filled chocolates. Hand made. Carefully packaged with a perfect little ribbon even though they know you are going to rip it right off.
We went to the Ruben's house museum after that. It was interesting, but not overly impressive, as it didn't really have signs on all the paintings, there was no guide we could find, and some things seemed to be out on show. But there were a few of the famous Flemish painters. Very similar to the works in Lieden and we were impressed with the construction of the hold house and gardens.
Even though we should have learned our lesson from the night before, we felt like we had to 'kill time' before dinner. In Holland if you show up for dinner at 5pm, the wait staff is all smoking on the curb out front and glaring at you to move along. But we would have been fine going straight to dinner in Belgium. A friend has suggested an interesting bar for drinks. It was down in a cellar, under the street. It was all candle lit.
The beer was very good. Even though we had been warned against mediocre food, Elena was hungry and tired (and it turns out cutting her two year molars), so we just had some 'food.' We compensated with chocolates on the way home, though.
Sunday we woke up to no cars getting towed (bummer for Elena) and a bit of rain. So after breakfast and checking a bag at the desk, we headed to the Vogletsmart. It was, we had hoped, going to be an opportunity for Jake and Elena to see some pigeons and rare birds. However, it turned out to be a sad little market with too many bunnies in too small cages. We quickly moved on and distracted ourselves with waffles. I'm in love with Belgian waffles. Those that bare the 'Belgian waffle' name in America do them a disservice. Belgian waffles are not made with a batter, but rather a sweet dough (quite similar to what is used to make stroopwafels in Holland).
They are pressed into to a waffle iron and the result is a warm, gooey, sweet center surrounded by a cake like batter with a crunch coating of slightly burnt sugar on the edges. Pure heaven I tell you. They even thoughtfully have pre-cooled ones for the kids. Jake and I burned our mouths on them and remarked on the amazing experience. Cooled, the sugar crystallizes into crunchy bits and is quite tasty as well. But the warm ones are amazing.
Sunday there was a street festival going on. So we walked through the booths and listened to some music. We walked along the water, got caught in a down pour, dried out over a lunch of pitas while watching the horse carriages trot by, bought a box of chocolates (from a not nice lady, as a matter of fact) and headed home.
(** pictures will be added when blogger is behaving itself ** )
posted by Erin K. | 12:09 PM
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